Everyone needs to carry around their sunglasses, particularly on sunny days. But my prescription sunnies always come in a large hard case which is almost impossible to fit in a small bag. So I decided to make myself a pretty little Drawstring Sunnies Case to solve this problem. You might find it handy too so I made it into a tutorial. I’d love to see your finished Drawstring Sunnies Case!
Materials:
*Scrap Fabric for: exterior, lining and drawstring channels
*Pellon SF101 Iron on interfacing (optional)
*Iron on fleece Interfacing or similar (iron on works better than sew in) – just make sure you keep it out of the seams. If you use sew in you might want to add extra quilting to keep it in place.
*2 x 13” -16” (33cm – 40cm) lengths of Trim (for drawstring – eg ribbon, Tape, string)
Sewing Tools:
Sewing Machine, Hera Marker or masking/washi tape (or non permanent fabric marker), Rotary Cutter and Ruler. I like to use a ‘Threader’ to thread my trim but you can also use a safety pin.
Cut:
2 x Drawstring Channels from Contrasting fabric: 2”h x 5”w
2 x Main Exterior & Main Lining: 7&1/4”h x 4”w
4 x Fleece interfacing (iron-on or sew-in): 6&1/2”h x 3&1/4”w
(Optional) 4 x Pellon SF101 Interfacing: 7&1/4”h x 4”w for Main Pieces
Notes:
*Seam Allowance is 1/4” unless otherwise stated
*All topstitching is at 1/8”
*All basting is at 1/8”
*RST= Right Sides of the fabric together
*WST=Wrong Sides of the fabric together
*Always lock off your sewing by backstitching at the start and end of your stitches.
*If you need more information about interfacing & stabilizers just head over to my tutorial (https://www.pedlarcreative.com/techniques/interfacings-and-stabilisers/). Hopefully you’ll find it useful!
Interface & Quilt Fabric:
1. (Optional) Iron on the Pellon SF101 interfacing to both exterior and lining pieces.
2. Iron your Fleece interfacing to both exterior and lining pieces. Make sure the fleece is centred. If using sew-in fleece – just use pins to keep it in place until quilting.
3. (Optional) It’s now time to quilt both your exterior and lining main pieces. I usually topstitch 5 channels along my main pieces. But feel free to add as many lines as you want. Or you might choose to omit this step altogether if you’ve used an iron-on fleece. This step is partially creative but also helps to keep the fleece in place.
Sew Drawstring Channels:
1. Take your two drawstring channel pieces. And fold each short end over 1” with WST. Press. Repeat with the second channel piece.
2. Topstitch along each short end at an 1/8” and 7/8” from the folded edge.
3. Now fold each drawstring channel in half length ways with WST – matching your raw edges. Press.
4. (Optional) I like to baste the channels along the raw edge. This just helps keep it in place for the next step.
5. Take one of your main exterior fabric blocks. If you have used a directional print then finding the top of the block is easy. Otherwise decide which short end is going to be the top.
6. Take one drawstring channel and line up its raw edge with the top of the main fabric block. Make sure the channel is centred, pin and then baste in place. Repeat with the other exterior block and channel.
Assemble Lining and Exterior:
1. Now take your 2 exterior blocks and place them RST matching all the raw edges. Make sure the raw short ends with the drawstring channels are both matched together. This is at the top of the main panel. Pin along the three other sides and sew. (Leaving the top open) Clip the corners and iron the seam allowances open.
2. Take your two lining main pieces. Determine which short end will be the top & bottom. Fold the bottom short end over to the wrong side by 3/8”. Press. Repeat with the other main lining piece.
3. Place the 2 lining pieces RST, matching all raw edges. (Note: If you have directional fabric remember to check that the pattern is running in the same direction.) The turned over edges (the bottom) should also be matched up. Pin along the 2 long sides. You can sew these seams at 1/4” or you could taper you seam allowance. (Starting from a 1/4” at the top and then increasing to 3/8” for the rest of the seam.) Tapering will mean a nicer fit for the lining at the end. Iron the seam allowance open.
4. Turn the exterior right side out. Leave the lining wrong side out.
Final Assembly:
1. For the final assembly place the exterior piece inside the lining piece. The right sides of both the lining and exterior should be together. The two drawstring channels should be facing inside the pouch and sandwich in between.
2. Match up the two side seams first and pin them in place. Add more pins/clips to keep the fabric in place (optional).
3. Sew around the top opening. It can be a bit tricky this step so take your time. Not only is it a small space to sew around but also the seams can be bulky. I recommend sewing this seam from inside.
4. Pull the exterior through the gap you left at the bottom of the lining. Take your time as the gap isn’t huge. Use a pointy tool (chop stick) to push the corners out. Give the pouch a good iron.
5. Sew up the gap in the lining either by hand stitch (slip stitch) or by machine (close to the edge).
6. Tuck the lining inside the exterior and give another good iron. Tip: I use my chop stick to help push the lining into the exterior. I find that I’m able to get the lining to sit more evenly (particularly because the fleece can be bulky).
7. Topstitch around the opening of the case – just below the drawstring channels. This step can be tricky and I find it easier to topstitch from the inside of the pouch.
Thread Drawstring:
1. Thread one drawstring through the first channel and then the second channel. (Note: You might find a safety pin helpful for guiding the drawstring through the channels)
2. Tie the two ends together with a knot.
3. Take the other drawstring and thread it from the opposite end to the first.
And you’ve finished your Drawstring Sunnies Case!
I would love to see your finished Drawstring Sunnies Case ❤️
