Fabric Coaster Tutorial

Coasters are used constantly in my home – they’re just so handy for so many reasons! So when I was brain storming ideas for using up my scrap fabric it made perfect sense to make some coasters. Plus a great use of small pieces of interfacing and stabilisers. I hope you enjoy my fabric coaster tutorial!

For further information on interfacings and stabilisers check out my tutorial.

Finished Size: 4” x 4”

Materials:

Fabric A
Accent Fabric B
Pellon 975 Insul-Fleece
Pellon 987F Fusible Fleece
Woven Fusible Interfacing (Pellon SF101)

Note: This project is great for using up scrap fabric and interfacing. Feel free to use your own combinations or whatever you have at home (although if you want it to be heat or cold resistant you will need to use a insulated fleece/fabric). I’ve made mine using a combination of quilting cotton and canvas fabrics. The measurements below are for 1 coaster only.

All seam allowances are 1/2” except for top stitching.

Cut (Measurements W x H):

From Fabric A:

Cut (1) 5”x5”

(1) 2”x 5”

From Fabric B:

Cut (1) 4”x5”

From Insul-Fleece:

(1) 4”x4”

From Fusible Fleece:

(1) 4”x4”

From Woven Fusible Interfacing (optional):

Cut (1) 5”x5”

(1) 2”x5”

(1) 4”x5”

Step 1:

Fuse the Woven Interfacing to the wrong side of all fabric pieces. Fuse the Fusible Fleece to the wrong side of fabric A (5”x5”) piece in the middle. This will give you 1/2” along all 4 sides. From now on this piece will be referred to as the bottom piece.

Step 2:

(Optional) If you want to attach your own label now is the best time to do it. I baste mine about 1” down along the left 5” side of Fabric B, but of course you can choose to put your label wherever you want!

Take fabric A (2”x5”) and your fabric B piece and place these pieces right sides together. You can choose to match up fabric A on either the left or right side of fabric B. Just make sure you match up the raw edges of the 5” sides of both fabrics. Pin and sew in place. Press seam allowance open. This will now be referred to as the top piece.

Step 3:

Take the top piece and lay it right side down on your work bench. Place the insul fleece silver side down, and centred, on top. Pin in place.

Now flip your front piece so that the right side is facing up. You will now top stitch an 1/8” away from the seam you sewed in step 2. I sew down both sides of the seam but this is up to you. As you are sewing your row/s of top stitching, you will also be sewing the insul fleece in place underneath.

Because you will be sewing through a few layers it might be worth changing the tension to a higher number like 5 or 6. I always try and test my tension by sewing on some scraps before I start a project. Particularly if I am sewing through numerous layers, But it’s definitely a good habit to get into regardless. I also like to use a longer stitch length for my top stitching – I think it makes the top stitching look straighter.

Note: These rows of stitching can really make a difference to your finished coaster. Not only does it stop your insul fleece from moving around when you are assembling your coaster but it also helps keep it in place when you need to wash your coasters in the future.

Step 4 (Optional):

Now is the time to do some decorative quilting on the top piece. I’ve added two extra lines of quilting to my coasters. I measured 1” from the seam on the top piece and then a second one another inch along. Since my masking tape is an inch wide I use this to help sew my top stitching straight. Another other option is to draw your lines with a water-soluable pen or tailor’s chalk.

Step 5:

Place the top piece right sides together with the bottom piece, matching all the raw edges. Pin the sides and sew around all four sides but leave a 2-3” gap on one side for turning the coaster right side out. I tend to make sure the gap is on the side of the coaster that has both fabric A pieces. But it’s up to you.

Clip all 4 corners and trim three of the sides down to a 1/4” seam allowance. Leave the side with the gap at a 1/2” seam allowance. Iron this seam open.

Turn the coaster right side out and make sure you push the corners out so they are nice and square (I use a chop stick to do this). The raw edges of the gap should be inside the coaster. Give the coaster a good iron.

Step 6:

Now top stitch around the entire coaster, making sure to backstitch at the start and end. This will close the gap you left for turning. I like to change the colour of my top thread to match the colour of my fabric – but it’s totally up to you! You might want to use a completely contrasting colour thread. Or you might even choose to close the gap by hand stitching and omit the top stitching altogether.